Years of Practice

Squid & prawns with harissa

We tried this out for the first time back in Tarleton Gardens, after I received a copy of Sam & Sam Clark’s book Casa Moro for Christmas 2004. It’s a wonderfully simple and quick recipe, easy to rustle up for a weekday supper, and it has enjoyed a new lease of life since our return to West London, where I’ve found a great source of affordable frozen squid just around the corner. Belazu’s harissa is my preferred ready-made brand but I’ve recently made my own for the first time, using Nigella’s excellent recipe in Cook, Eat, Repeat (2020), which is reproduced below.

Served here with rainbow chard with garlic, chilli & lemon, and garlic & coriander naan

Serves 4

3 medium squid, about the size of your hand, cleaned (300g prepared weight)
3-4 tbsp olive oil
Salt & pepper
60g harissa
200g peeled raw prawns
3 tbsp roughly chopped fresh coriander
a squeeze of lemon

Method

Clean the squid, then cut the bodies into small strips or rounds no bigger than 1cm wide, and the tentacles in halves or quarters, depending on size.

In a large frying pan, heat the olive oil over a high heat. When it just begins to smoke, add the prawns and squid and sizzle for roughly a minute, stirring a couple of times. Then add the harissa and stir again. Finally, add the coriander and taste for seasoning. Serve immediately with bread and salad, dressed with olive oil and lemon.

Nigella’s apricot harissa

Ingredients

20g large dried chillies, such as Kashmiri chillies
1 tsp caraway seeds
1 tsp coriander seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
Seeds from 4 cardamom pods
45g (approx 6) soft dried apricots
15g fresh turmeric (or 1 tsp dried turmeric)
4 fat cloves of garlic
25g fresh ginger
2 tsp sea salt flakes (or 1 tsp fine sea salt)
1 tsp sweet smoked paprika
4 x 15ml tbsp (60ml) olive oil
1 tsp apple cider vinegar

Method

Put the dried chillies in a bowl or jug and pour over about 500ml water from a just-boiled kettle. With a spoon, press the chillies down under the water (don’t try to weigh them down with something heavy if you want to avoid some dramatic consequences – accept that they will keep bobbing up), then cover with a plate and leave the chillies to soften for 15 minutes.

Put the caraway, coriander and cumin seeds, along with the seeds from the cardamom pods, into a frying pan and toast them all over a medium heat for a few minutes, shaking the pan regularly to make sure they don’t burn. When the spices are lightly coloured and releasing their aroma, tip them into the bowl of a blender.

Halve the apricots, slice the turmeric (if using the fresh root) into three pieces, peel the garlic, peel and roughly chop the ginger and add all this to your blender, along with the salt and paprika (and dried turmeric if you’re not using fresh). Lift the chillies out of their soaking water, pull off the stalks and drop into the bowl. Pour in the oil and vinegar and blitz until you have a thick paste. You can do all this with a stick blender instead if you have one.

The mixture will last for 2 weeks in the fridge in a jar – Nigella advises pouring more oil over the surface to cover it before putting the lid on – or you can freeze it in ice cube trays, in which case it will last up to 6 months.

Coconut dal with lime kale

Last year, a pressing sense of responsibility towards the planet prompted us to sign up for Veganuary. We soldiered on through gamely, experimenting with all sorts of alternative foods, but were not prepared to commit to long-term veganism: the end of our month-long meat and dairy drought was marked by a slap-up full English breakfast on 1st February 2020. We have, however, pledged allegiance to Veganuary again this year and have made sure to include this great recipe from Meera Sodha on the menu. It’s cheap, filling and sees off your father’s sense of deprivation.

Serves 4

Ingredients
450g red lentils
3 cardamom pods
vegetable oil
1 cinnamon stick
3 whole cloves
2 brown onions, thinly sliced
4 garlic cloves, crushed
2cm ginger root, peeled and grated
2 green finger chillies, finely sliced
½ tsp ground turmeric
250g kale
200ml tinned coconut milk
Salt
½ tsp mustard seeds
2 tbsp desiccated coconut
1 lime, juiced
rice and plain yogurt to serve

Method
Wash the lentils in cold water until the water runs clear, then cover in water and leave to one side. Bash the cardamom pods with a pestle and mortar until cracked.

Put 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil into a deep lidded saucepan over a medium heat and, when hot, add the cardamom, cinnamon stick and cloves. Stir-fry for a minute, then add the onions. Cook for 10 minutes, stirring frequently, until the onions are browning and soft, then add the garlic, ginger and green chillies. Stir-fry for another couple of minutes, then remove a third of the mixture and leave it to one side.

Drain the lentils and add to the pan, along with the turmeric and 1 litre of hot water. Bring to the boil, then turn the heat right down and simmer for 20-25 minutes, until the lentils are soft and creamy. In the meantime, wash the kale and chop the leaves into 5cm strips, discarding the thicker stems. When the lentils are ready, add the coconut milk and 1½ teaspoons of salt, cook for another 5 minutes, then take off the heat. Cover to keep warm.

Put a tablespoon of vegetable oil into a lidded frying pan over a medium heat and, when hot, add the mustard seeds. When they pop, put the reserved onion mixture into the pan and fry for a couple of minutes, then add the kale and desiccated coconut. Stir-fry for a minute, then add 50ml of water and put the lid on. Leave to steam for 4 minutes, then add the lime juice and ½ teaspoon of salt and stir. Put the lid back on and steam for another 2 minutes, or until the kale is soft and tender.

To serve, ladle the dal into bowls and divide the kale over the top. Serve with rice and yogurt.

Chickpea & tomato soup

Here is another recipe originally from Sophie Grigson’s Food for Friends (see Aubergine Parmigiana). I’ve had to play around with it from the start because the officially published version has no tomatoes in it (in spite of the title) and, in any case, it lends itself to multiple variations. All sorts of tinned pulses will work just as well as chickpeas and you can sling in any flavourings that take your fancy: sumac, piros arany, carrots, even grilled red peppers all have their place.

Serves 4

Ingredients

1 onion, halved and sliced thinly
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
2 tbsp oil – anything not too strongly flavoured
zest and juice of half a lemon
1 tin chickpeas
1 tin chopped tomatoes
500ml vegetable or chicken stock
1 tbsp tomato puree
1 tsp ground cumin
½ tsp ground fenugreek
¼ tsp cayenne pepper
1 tsp sugar
salt to taste
Some chopped herbs (parsley or coriander) to garnish

Method

Heat the oil on a medium heat in a heavy saucepan and add the onions. Cook, stirring until softened (about eight minutes), then add the garlic and lemon zest and cook for another couple of minutes. Raise the heat and add the rest of the ingredients apart from the chickpeas, salt, lemon juice and herbs. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat again and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the chickpeas and cook for a final five minutes, then stir in the lemon juice and salt, remove from the heat and allow to cool a little before whizzing it all up (in two batches) in a blender. Reheat, check seasoning and serve with a scattering of herbs on top.

Oven-baked mushroom risotto

The traditional method of making risotto involves the slow addition of warm stock and a lot of stirring over a hot stove to produce a creamy mass of al dente rice. This alternative approach, devised by Delia Smith, saves all that bother and leaves the cook free for other worthwhile activities (like polishing off the Madeira). I have yet to live down the whisky-based experiment in 2009 but please don’t let that put you off trying this: it really is delicious. The adjusted quantities below make it a main course for six, Delia’s original having been intended as a starter.

Serves 6

Ingredients

15g dried porcini mushrooms
340g fresh dark-gilled mushrooms
75g butter
1 large onion, finely chopped
250g risotto rice (arborio or carnaroli)
225ml dry Maderia
3 tbsp grated parmesan plus 75g extra, shaved into flakes
Salt and pepper

You will also need a shallow ovenproof dish of 2-2.25 litre capacity

Method

First soak the dried mushrooms: place them in bowl and pour 850ml boiling water over them. Leave to soak and soften for half an hour. Meanwhile, finely chop your onion and cut the fresh mushrooms into about 1 cm chunks.

Preheat the oven to 140 fan.

Melt the butter in a large saucepan, add the onion and let it cook over a gentle heat for about 5 minutes, then add the mushrooms, stir well and leave on one side while you deal with the porcini. When they have had their half-hour soak, place a sieve over a bowl, line with a double sheet of kitchen paper or a muslin and strain the mushrooms, reserving the liquid. Squeeze any excess liquid out of them, then chop finely and add to the mushroom-onion mixture in the pan. Keep the heat low and let everything sweat gently and release their juices (about 20 minutes). Put the dish in the oven to warm.

Add the rice, stir to coat well, then add the Madeira, strained mushroom-soaking liquid, 1½ tsp salt and ground black pepper. Bring it up to simmering point, then transfer the whole lot from the pan to the warmed dish. Stir once, then put it uncovered in the oven for 20 minutes exactly.

When the buzzer goes, stir in the grated parmesan and return the dish to the oven for a further 15 minutes. Serve sprinkled with shavings of parmesan, and with a green salad alongside.

Slow-cooked lamb shanks

This dish ticks multiple boxes. Hearty and satisfying, it is sophisticated enough for a dinner party but also affordable if you get your lamb shanks from your friendly local Syrian butcher rather than from Waitrose. Once all the onions have been sliced, it also entails very little effort. The recipe is from the first River Café Cookbook, one of many in my collection from the mid-90s and has needed hardly a tweak since. Writing through gritted teeth and with growling stomach, at the start of Veganuary 2021, I predict that lamb shanks will make an early appearance on the table in February.

Serves 6 generously

Ingredients

6 small lamb shanks
plain flour for dusting
salt and pepper
2 tbsp olive oil
6 red onions, peeled and finely sliced
a handful of chopped rosemary leaves
4 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
175 ml balsamic vinegar
300 ml red wine

Method

Preheat the oven to 180 (fan) / 200C.

Dust the lamb shanks with seasoned flour. In a heavy-bottomed saucepan with a lid, heat the oil and brown the shanks on all sides, then remove. Lower the heat, add the onions and cook for about 10-15 minutes until light brown. Add the rosemary and garlic and cook for another couple of minutes. Raise the heat and add the balsamic vinegar and the wine. Reduce for a couple of minutes.

Return the shanks to the pan, reduce the heat and cover with a piece of moistened greaseproof paper and the lid. Cook in the oven for 2-2½ hours, or alternatively on top of the stove (slowly).

Check the shanks from time to time, basting with the juices, turning them over and adding more wine if they look too dry. Serve whole, with the juices. Mashed potatoes are a great accompaniment, along with something green.

Parmesan & poppyseed biscuits

These are a savoury version of kilted highlanders, the demerara-coated shortbread biscuits that Great-Granny would often wheel out at tea time. They’re incredibly easy to make, arresting to look at and make a great accompaniment to pre-dinner drinks. Given that the recipe comes from Ottolenghi (his first book), you might be surprised to recognise all the ingredients on the list – no esoteric surprises here, especially for the Hungarian, for whom poppyseeds (mák) are a store-cupboard essential.

Makes about 20 biscuits

Ingredients

210g plain flour, plus plenty extra for dusting
1/2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp paprika
a pinch of cayenne pepper
165g unsalted butter, at room temperature
165g Parmesan cheese, freshly grated
80g poppyseeds
1 egg, beaten
Salt and black pepper

Method

Sift the flour, baking powder, paprika and cayenne into a bowl and add the salt and pepper. Mix the softened butter with the Parmesan until they are well blended. You can do this either by hand, using a wooden spoon, or in a freestanding mixer fitted with the paddle attachment.

Add the dry ingredients and continue mixing until a soft dough is formed. Put the dough on a well-floured work surface and divide it in half. Using plenty of flour, both on your hands and on the work surface, roll each piece into a long log, 3- 4cm in diameter. Wrap each log in cling film and place in the fridge for about 30 minutes to firm up.

Scatter the poppyseeds over two sheets of foil large enough to wrap each log. Brush the logs with the beaten egg and then roll them in the poppyseeds until covered. Roll up the foil and secure the ends.

Refrigerate again for 1 hour (at this stage you can also freeze them).

Preheat the oven to 160°C fan. Line a baking sheet with baking parchment. Cut the logs into slices 5 mm thick and arrange them on the tray, spaced apart. Bake for 15 minutes or until the biscuits are dark golden.

Brandy butter

The essential accompaniment to Christmas pudding, brandy butter is easy to make and keeps for ages in the fridge. I’ve learned from bitter experience not to go in too heavy with the brandy: it’s liable to split the mixture, which will still taste fine but will look, unappetisingly, like scrambled eggs. If it does split, just sift in more icing sugar and beat until it’s smooth again. My version includes dark brown sugar and orange, echoing elements of the pudding, which, if flambéd with more brandy, will provide the desired extra kick of booze.

Serves 8

Ingredients

120g unsalted butter, at room temperature
120g icing sugar
60g dark brown sugar
zest of ½ orange + 1-2 tbsp orange juice
3 tbsp brandy

Method

Using an electric hand whisk, mix up the butter and sugars until soft and well combined. Add the orange zest and juice, whisk again and then incorporate the brandy a tablespoon at a time. Pile into a serving vessel and chill until you need it, but give it a good hour out of the fridge to soften up before serving.

Christmas sauces

Here are foolproof instructions for two accompaniments to roast turkey: cranberry sauce and bread sauce. Both can be made in advance and stored in the fridge for a couple of days. The cranberry sauce will in fact keep for much longer if kept in a sterilised jar.

Cranberry sauce

Serves 6

Ingredients

Juice of 1 orange, plus zest of ½ orange
150g caster sugar
300g fresh cranberries
1½ tbsp port

Method

Put the orange juice and sugar in a small pan and heat gently, stirring, until the sugar dissolves. Add the cranberries, bring to a simmer, then cook for about eight minutes, until most of the fruit has burst and you have a loose sauce: it will set as it cools, so don’t worry if it still seems a bit liquid when you stop cooking.

Stir in the port and orange zest and transfer to a bowl. Chill until needed. It can be served warm or cold.

Bread sauce

Serves 6-8

Ingredients

1 small onion, peeled
5 cloves
2 bay leaves
3-4 shards blade mace
10 peppercorns
500ml whole milk
115g white breadcrumbs
1 tbsp cream (optional)
nutmeg, grated
½ tsp salt

Method

Cut the onion in half and stud the cut side with the cloves, then put in a small pan with the bay leaves, mace, peppercorns and milk. Heat until it is on the point of boiling, then turn off the heat and leave to infuse for an hour.

Strain the milk, return to the pan and gently reheat. Stir in the breadcrumbs and heat, stirring, until the mix has thickened to your desired consistency. Stir in the cream, if using, season to taste with salt and grated nutmeg, then transfer to a bowl and serve warm. If you make it in advance, chill in the fridge and zap in the microwave for a couple of minutes before serving: it may need a little more milk or cream to loosen the texture.

Mulled wine

An essential lubricant at this time of year, mulled wine always fills the house with evocative smells. After literally years of experimenting with different versions, I’ve concluded that Jamie Oliver’s recipe is the best. Follow this and you can dispense with those ghastly sachets of spice mix or – even worse – the pre-mixed bottles on the bottom shelf of the booze aisle. The only change I’ve made is a slight reduction in the quantity of nutmeg and star anise. For larger numbers, or thirstier drinkers, a family-sized slow cooker is an excellent vessel. If you’re after extra ‘warmth’, pep it all up with a shot of brandy, though it tastes perfectly authentic without.

Antique Hungarian glass inherited from Nagymami.

Serves 10 (allegedly)

Ingredients

2 clementines
1 lemon
1 lime
200 g caster sugar
6 whole cloves
1 cinnamon stick
3 bay leaves
½ nutmeg, for grating
1 vanilla pod
2 bottles Chianti or other Italian red wine
1 star anise

Method

Peel large sections of peel from the clementines, lemon and lime using a speed-peeler.
Put the sugar in a large saucepan over a medium heat, add the pieces of peel and squeeze in the clementine juice.
Add the cloves, cinnamon stick, bay leaves and about 10 to 12 gratings of nutmeg. Halve the vanilla pod lengthways and add to the pan, then stir in just enough red wine to cover the sugar.
Let this simmer until the sugar has completely dissolved into the red wine, then bring to the boil. Keep on a rolling boil for about 4 to 5 minutes, or until you’ve got a beautiful thick syrup. The point of doing this first is to create a wonderful flavour base by really getting the sugar and spices to infuse and blend well with the wine. It’s important to make a syrup base first because it needs to be quite hot, and if you do this with both bottles of wine in there you’ll burn off the alcohol.
When your syrup is ready, turn the heat down to low and add your star anise and the rest of the wine. Gently heat the wine and after around 5 minutes, when it’s warm and delicious, ladle it into heatproof glasses and serve.

Christmas Day Brunch

A slap-up brunch on Christmas morning evolved as a family ritual after the grandparents moved to Garde. The kitchen is always a hive of activity, with one person (wo)manning the egg-poaching station, others grilling bacon, laying the table, picking at beigli or sneaking off for last-minute present-wrapping. Liverpool tops, Bloody Marys, chocolate coins from stockings and potato preparation often feature too. Allow a good hour and a half to prepare and consume all this before Father Christmas arrives growling hőha.

Ingredients for 6

Hollandaise sauce
6 English muffins
1 pack unsmoked back bacon
200g smoked salmon
240g spinach
6-10 eggs

Also
2 bottles champagne
1 litre orange juice
Coffee
Satsumas
Beigli
Mince pies

Method

Ideally there will be several people mucking in, who between them need to do the following:

1. Make the hollandaise
2. Grill the bacon
3. Arrange the smoked salmon artistically on a serving plate, dress with lemon juice and black pepper
4. Lay the table
5. Make Buck’s Fizz: half fill a large jug with orange juice and top up with one bottle of champagne
6. Make coffee
7. Wilt and season the spinach: put it in a colander and pour a kettle-full of boiling water over it, then season and add lemon juice at the last minute
8. Split and toast the muffins
9. Poach the eggs: you should be able to manage four at a time in a large pan of boiling water with a dash of vinegar; give the eggs three minutes at a gentle simmer, then drain on kitchen paper.

Allow everyone to help themselves, building their own eggs benedict/florentine/royale as a vehicle for lashings of hollandaise sauce. Wash down with Buck’s Fizz, straight champagne or just coffee. Follow with satsumas, beigli and mince pies to keep you full until the main meal of the day.